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Estate Fencing Installation Guides

Estate Fencing Installation Guides 

See the guides below for the installation of the three types of estate fencing. If you would like any further advice we are always happy to help.

To order or make an enquiry please get in touch by completing our Enquiry Form detailing your requirements. We will reply on the same (working) day with a dedicated quote and payment details.

As always if you need some instant advice just call us on 01485 524251.

Estate fencing panels

Kit list

Installation guide 

(Cementing in the ground)

You will need:

Spirit level – Tape measure – Spanner for m8 nuts – Spade – String line – Cement & sand/post mix and appropriate PPE – If stepping your fence you will also need a drill and an 8mm drill bit

Ensure the area you are fencing is clear of growth and flat….

1. Mark out the fence run with a string line

We advise setting this at 5cm above the ground and around 0.5cm from the panels (close enough to be an accurate guide but not too close that it can be obstructed by the fence).

Keep the line level and step the fence to absorb any gradient.

concrete the panels

2. Set the panel height

There are different methods for ensuring the panels are cemented at the correct height. While we describe the panels as being for a 1.2m high fence there is some flexibility with this way, for aesthetics, we would advise being consistent on whatever height you choose.

If you decide on a 1.2m high fence make a mark on the panels 115cm down from the top of the posts, when cementing the panels this mark should be at the same height as the line. With the line set 5cm above the ground, this will provide a 1.2m tall fence.

3. Concrete the panels

Dig the holes so they are at approximately 1010mm centres. If one end is fixed ie against a wall start here as any flexibility in the fence length at the other end may negate the need to cut a panel to size.

Cement the first panel in but just the first and middle post, do not cement the end post as the next panel will go into this hole too. Use a spirit level to ensure the sides and ends are level.

Tips – Using a fast setting post mix will ensure installed panels quickly become stable and will not move out of level.

If using normal sand and cement opt for a drier mix and compact this around the posts to make the panels more secure during installation.

It can be helpful to dig the holes a few centimetres too shallow and hammer the panels down (hammering on the posts) to the correct height, this gives them more stability and prevents them from dropping. Use props to keep the fence in position if need be.

connecting panels together

4. Connect subsequent panels

With the holes dug place the next panel in the position and connect to the first one using the nuts, bolts and Allen key provided. Check the line and levels are correct. Continue the process with subsequent panels.

5. At the end of the run

With luck or flexibility on the length of the fence, you can finish at a whole panel in which case there is no additional work required.

On occasions, a panel will need to be cut to length. Carefully trim the horizontal rails to length bearing in mind the additional 8mm thickness of a cut panel finishing post and end post if you’re using them (optional extras). If using an angle grinder take care, wear PPE and bear in mind the rails may be under tension/compression)

Cement the cut panel finishing post into position (if using one). Slide the top round rail into the sleeve and tighten using the grub screw. Attach the 4 lower rails to the lugs on the cut panel post by drilling and bolting them.

6. Painting

Our panels are supplied as untreated bare steel or pre-painted.

If you choose to paint your fence yourself, it is quick and effective, please get in touch for advice on the high-build, single-coat paints.

Paints are available in RAL colours so why not match an existing colour scheme? Or go down the traditional route and allow your fence to weather naturally omitting all future maintenance while still providing a lifetime of service.

Take a look at our fence painting advice page for more useful information.

Welding your own estate fencing

Kit list

You will need:

Spirit level – Tape measure – Spade – Post rammer (ideally) – Lump or sledge hammer – String line – Cement & sand/post mix – Angle grinder – Welder etc and appropriate PPE

Ensure the area you are fencing is clear of growth and flat.

1. Begin installing the end posts and any corner posts

These should be concreted in the ground. Ensure they are level and 1.2m from the top of the post to ground level (not including any finials). This will leave 600mm of the post below the ground.

Tips – While it’s not advisable to go much higher than 1.2m for stability there is some flexibility with the fence height.

2. Mark out the fence run with a string line

Attach the string line to the end posts (Or a corner post). Set around 5cm above the ground or if creating curves simply lay a rail on the ground along the line you wish to create, this will ensure the fence flows and you are not trying to achieve an over-tight radius.

Tips – Stakes can be used to hold the guide rail in position. keep curves as smooth as possible, tight turns will put pressure on the posts and force them over.

3. Make a depth mark on the posts

We use the following system to achieve this but you can have your own. If working to a string line 5cm above the ground, make a mark on the posts 115cm down from the top (using the chalk pen supplied). Knock the posts down so the mark on the post is level with the line. Assuming the string line is set at 5cm above the ground this will ensure your fence is 1.2m high.

Make this mark on all the posts as a depth guide when cementing or knocking them to ensure consistent depth.

In the case of a curved fence working to a rail laid out in the ground, as this is almost at ground mark the posts at or just under 1200mm from the top and knock the posts down so the mark is level with the rail.

Tips – If the ground is gently undulating and you wish the fence to follow the undulation the string line can be pegged at points to keep it at an average of 50mm above the ground.

Estate fencing installation

4. Knock the rest of the posts in

Every metre maximum, and use tape on the ground as a guide. Take care to knock the posts in so the chalk pen mark made on the post is the same level as the string line or guide rail. Don’t exceed a metre gap as ideally, the joins will meet at a post. If the rails are too long at the joins they can simply be trimmed back using an angle grinder.

Getting the posts level and at the correct depth is important as it directly translates to the rail levels and line. Check the posts with a spirit level on the front and side intermittently while knocking them in. If you have set up your string line from the end posts the mid posts should be 5mm in from the line to centralise them with the end posts as these are slightly wider.

Take care hammering the posts in they could bend under extreme hammering.

You can concrete the posts in if you prefer.

Tips – If concreting the posts in it is likely to be easier to dig a hole around 450mm deep and knock the posts in the rest of the way or far enough that they stand up on their own, this way you can build the entire fence and concrete it in at the end, this allows for adjustment during the build before committing with the concrete.

levelling the posts

5. Level the posts

Once they are all in. Two people are required for this, one at the end of the run to eye in along the tops of the post while the other gently knocks them down to the level or pulls them up if need be. Use a similar process to level the sides, check occasionally with a spirit level.

installing fencing

6. Threading the rails

With all the posts levelled and holes lining up, it’s the fun bit of threading the rails. Begin by cutting one of the lower rails in half and using the half sections for the 2nd and 4th rails down. This will ensure the joins are staggered putting less stress on joins through any curves and increasing the strength of the fence. From here on full-length rails are used.

Trim off any rails which protrude beyond the joining post using an angle grinder (ensure the post is level before trimming).

Weld Your Own Estate Fencing

7. Weld

Weld the rails beginning at one end. Ensure the posts are straight and level first. Ideally, weld the rails around the joins this will ensure water cannot sit at this point and cause uneven rusting.

Weld at every point a rod goes through a post. If any posts have bent during installation they can be welded straight now.

8. Painting

We supply the fence as bare steel as it’s common for our clients to opt for the traditional weathered steel finish. During the installation process, a painted surface is likely to be damaged. Take a look at our fence painting advice page for helpful information.


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